Ex British Vogue Editor Claims Fashion Industry Is ‘Going Backward’

Edward Enninful, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, warns that the fashion industry is regressing in terms of diversity and reverting to narrower beauty norms.

The fight against restrictive beauty norms within the fashion industry began in the early 2000s, shifting societal attitudes toward beauty to prioritize diversity, body positivity, and inclusivity.

With the rise of social media and the fashion industry’s history of promoting narrow standards, which have affected people’s self-esteem, acceptance, and created a sense of exclusion. Social media empowered diverse voices with a platform to demand authentic representation that reflects the reality of the world, not just society’s ideals.

Over the years, industry standards have evolved, and diversity and inclusion have begun to shape the industry.

Runways and fashion magazines began to feature racially diverse models of various ethnic backgrounds more consistently, showcasing models such as Halima Aden, Adwoa Aboah, and Anok Yai, alongside a visible shift toward accepting diverse body types and advocating for body positivity and inclusivity, including Winnie Harlow, Ashley Graham, and Paloma Elsesser.

Gender fluidity within the LGBTQ+ community was also embraced in the industry, with non-binary and transgender models like Hunter Schafer gracing the stages of top designers and appearing on the covers of prominent magazines.

Although the industry has made strides towards gender inclusivity, body positivity, and racial and ethnic diversity, challenging the norms, Enniful warns that fashion risks going backwards.

“I think we’re potentially going back to an industry that’s just sort of, ‘one type is the norm, being European is the norm, being super-thin is the norm’,” said Enninful in a recent interview with BBC Radio 4 podcast Radical with Amol Rajan.

Additionally, when asked by Rajan if a cultural “anti-woke moment” was taking place, Enninful agreed.

As the first black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, Enninful has championed diversity in fashion to “represent the world we live in today.”

Although he departed from British Vogue in 2023, he recently launched an inclusive new media platform called EE72. The platform features Julia Roberts on the cover and highlights 20 celebrities, including Pharrell Williams, Priyanka Chopra, Oprah Winfrey, and Naomi Campbell.

This release also came just months after Anna Wintour’s departure as editor-in-chief of Vogue.

Enniful believes the fashion industry “has to figure out where we stand and what we stand for” and through his new media platform, he plans to reinvent fashion magazines by promoting representation, fostering a voice for all, and encouraging creativity and inclusivity.

This is “the perfect time,” said Enninful, “there’s a lot of work to be done.”

In a world where media influences how we see ourselves and others, it is more important than ever that these platforms persist rather than regress. The fashion industry has the power to shape culture, challenge beauty norms, and inspire people to love themselves authentically, and that matters far more than outdated, narrow ideals of beauty.